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Summer tea rows on the high slopes of Giddapahar Tea Estate above the Kurseong valley

The summer rows above the Kurseong valley

The summer pluck is under way on the Kurseong hillside. What the second flush is, why these weeks matter most in the Darjeeling year, and what is coming down from the garden.

By late June the hillside is in full voice. The spring pluck is a memory, the bushes have pushed their second growth of the year, and the plucking rounds move through the rows each morning while the valley below is still holding its cloud. This is the second flush — the summer harvest, and the season on which Darjeeling's reputation rests.

What the summer gives

The first flush is prized for brightness; the second is prized for depth. Fuller leaf and stronger sun allow a longer oxidation, and the cup changes register entirely: deep amber rather than pale gold, ripe stone fruit and honey rather than cut greens. And in good summers, from old Chinary bushes, there is muscatel — the taste of muscat grape that cannot be manufactured, cannot be blended in, and has never been convincingly imitated by any other origin.

A garden either produces muscatel in a given summer or it does not. That is the whole truth of it, and the reason these weeks are watched so closely.

At Giddapahar the summer standard does not change: two leaves and a bud, taken by hand, withered and rolled whole, every lot cupped at the estate before it is released under the garden's name.

From this window

Three teas in the collection are born in these weeks. Summer Muscatel Black is the classic of the season — the muscat-grape cup itself. Summer Chinary Black is its fuller-bodied companion from the century-old bushes: caramel, roasted chestnut, honeyed fruit. And a very small part of the harvest is set aside for Moonlight Summer White, a rare summer white tea — white peach and muskmelon, made in quantities small enough that the caddy holds twenty-five grams.

The season is short. When the rains arrive in earnest, the window closes, and what was made in these weeks is all there will be of summer 2026.

Filed under Dispatches · the Tea Journal of House of Amranth.